● Currency HKD, pegged to the US dollar ● Visa-free stay up to 90 days for many nationalities ● Getting around Octopus card on MTR, tram & ferry ● Airport Express Central in 24 min ● Tap water boil before drinking ● Emergency number 999

Happy Valley, up close

Happy Valley sits in a natural bowl-shaped valley just south of Causeway Bay, dominated almost entirely by the racecourse at its centre — one of the most recognisable pieces of Hong Kong Island geography, especially visible from surrounding high floors.

Happy Valley Racecourse

One of only two horse-racing venues in Hong Kong (the other being Sha Tin), and the older and more atmospheric of the two — race nights here have long been a genuine local institution, drawing a lively midweek crowd rather than feeling like a tourist event.

The surrounding cemeteries

Unusually for such central real estate, the valley's slopes hold several long-established cemeteries — Catholic, Muslim, Parsi and Jewish among them — reflecting Hong Kong's historically international trading-port population, and worth a quiet, respectful walk for anyone interested in that history.

A dense residential pocket

Beyond the racecourse, Happy Valley is otherwise a quiet, largely residential area, with a small but well-regarded cluster of restaurants that draws locals rather than tour groups.